“Editors note” : Wow I have been slacking. I apologize yall. Hope you are all having a great thanksgiving and get to eat lots of delicious foods. I am back on track! Sorry for the lack of photos with this one. Hopefully you enjoy the story.
Hike The ADK’s
Thru-Hiking The NPT In April PART 2
As we drove from Maine to New York we kept an eye on snow banks and relied heavily on the wonderful and ever bettering weather report. The nights would be said to be cold, but the days would be perfect. We were excited, ready, and anxious. Fast forwarding a bit, we met Jack at the Lake Placid Trail Head and he shuttled us down to Northville all the while telling us stories about the trail that made us only more excited to get started.
It was 8 a.m as we thanked Jack and waved good bye. The sun was already warm on our faces as we double checked everything under the gazebo in town, making our last phone calls and talking with the migrating geese that had stopped for a quick swim. While we tightened our shoes and secured our packs we joked about how we should have had Jack drop us off down the road to alleviate the road walk out of town. (Ill never learn to appreciate walking on the road more ever than I did in lieu of this trail). WE WERE OFF!
Walking through Northville and across the bridge, the sun had us stripping a layer inside of a mile . We were both complaining about how terrible the road walk was and how we could not wait to be in the woods. A handful of miles down the dirt road later we got to the trail head. As we read trail signs, we were pleased to know we had covered the last 3.5 miles in under an hour. Breaking through a small patch of snow, in what I think was the wood’s attempt to tell us to turn back, we tramped over to the trail register to happily write our names in and take our first pictures to send back home to our families. Day one was clear and gorgeous. The trail was holding up to its reputation of being gorgeous and was surprisingly dry and clear. Then, our first Adirondack initiation was upon us.
As we approached West Stony Creek, we were curious to see its condition. West Stony Creek was in actuality the only real concern I ever had. I had read it had the potential to be impassable, especially during the spring when waters would be higher due to mountain run off. Walking up to it, it was all of the 90’ wide that it was said to be. After a quick search to see if we could rock hop, it was clear that the water was high enough that no rocks would be showing anytime soon, although it was thigh high at best. Undeterred by the running water, I started to strip down. Dustin had asked me some advice on how to fjord a river and I had given him the quick run down. “Unbuckle your waist belt, face up stream, poles down, three contact points at all time and just go for it.” He insisted that I go before him to see how it was done. No big deal. To be clear, this fjord would be much shallower and less raging than some of those that I had been through before so I did not worry. Here I am, all strapped up and I smile as I assure Dustin I would see him on the other side. Two steps later, my body froze on an instant. An excruciating pain shot from my feet directly to my head causing me to come back out exactly where I went in, holding my head in an attempt to get rid of the brain freeze. I gritted my teeth, wanting to swear but lacking the ability to produce any words. Dustin sat in silence waiting for a report. My report consisted of a couple handfuls of four letter expletives. To this day, in all of my 30 years, I have never subjected my body to water as cold as that water was. As I stood upon rocks to warm my feet and take away the pain, I had my first moment of doubt. I told Dustin “I just dont know… I honestly don’t think my body has the ability to go across this. I have literally never felt a pain like that in my life, and I am not sure if I can make it.” He proclaimed that having my shoes and socks on should help as I shivered on the shores of the running water. Then he tried… two steps and he turned around. Leaving the water while he moaned through his clenched teeth, visibly squeezing his trekking poles to the point that his knuckles turned white. I no longer felt it necessary to describe to Dustin my feelings.
We spent the next hour and a half walking upstream and downstream and back up stream. Hoping that in the time that had passed a tree maybe had fallen, or the water level had dropped a foot. Hoping for anything that would successfully get us across this body of water. Nothing like that ever happened though, and a mile downstream we found a tiny exposed island. We agreed it would be a good opportunity to split our misery into two parts, allowing us to warm up in between. We did in fact make it across, noting that it took us 3 hours through hesitation, bushwhacking, and warming up. That crossing, at the time, was single handedly the most miserable, self inflicted, trying experience I had been through. If Dustin was not with me, no doubt I would have turned around right then and gone home.
10 miles from the road, totaling a 14ish mile day, we arrived at camp still happy and excited for tomorrow. Happy, although still vocal about our dislike of the creek crossing. Seeming how it was in the past, and was the only real concern of ours, we figured the worst was over. Both feeling relatively great, we made dinner and turned in, agreeing to wake up early to try and make up some time so we could get a zero day somewhere we felt appropriate.
It’s Monday morning as we wake up. Having been lucky enough to start a day early, we were sure we had an easy hike and a peaceful 14 days ahead of us. While my teeth chattered I yelled to Dustin from my tent. “D-d-d-d-did you s-s-s-tay dry?” He laughed, replying that he in fact stayed dry (thanks to his new tent we picked up on our way out of town) although had a lingering shiver in his words as well. It had to be 20F, which fortunately we were prepared for, but no less excited about. This bitter cold, condensation freezing weather, would set the precedent for the rest of our trip. As we fought to leave our warm sleeping bags and tents, we persuaded each other with the weatherman’s prediction of 70F and strong sun. Which, it would in fact be, although it would never matter.
100 yards outside of camp, after our morning coffee of course, the trail drastically changed. Snow was starting to pile up. The signs of a melting winter were extremely obvious. The water was unavoidable as the day warmed up. For the next three days we possibly had the hardest hiking we had ever experienced. With a 1’’ layer of ice on top of a foot or more of snow, covering the sub freezing mountain run offs, the hiking was treacherous and slow. The first few times we broke down through the ice, we did not have much of a worry. However, at the end of the day, we could feel our inside ankles hitting the ice as we went down through. Each time, the feeling growing intensely worse, as if someone was hitting our ankles with baseball bats every second or third step. Upon breaking through, our feet would be met with the frigid temperatures of running water. Stepping back up onto the melting, mealy, loose snow was actually a treat from the freezing cold and somehow would provide a moment of peace. Walking atop the ice literally felt warmer than the water on our dripping wet feet. Breaking down through every third step, you could see the water lines mid thigh on our pants. Stopping every half of a mile to warm our feet for a moment when the pain turned into numbness.
It was somewhere around the half day mark we had realized a serious issue. We had been walking since sun up and we had not made it 5 miles yet. The trail was increasingly becoming deeper, wetter, and less marked. We were periodically having to stop with our map and re route our way through blow downs and around pond sized puddles that looked to be waist deep. We started to worry about not getting in our mileage when we remembered that since we had started a day early AND made up a couple miles on day one, we had the ability to stop some 6ish miles in and still be ultimately on schedule. We opted to do exactly that, and we struggled with frozen toes for the next couple miles to camp. Sadly the next couple miles would take us the rest of the day and we would arrive at camp less than pleased.
Waking up the following day, we were no less pleased to find our shoes had completely frozen. Our gaiters welded with ice to the step to our lean-to. The condensation on our tents literally hanging in icicle form. After an hour of roasting our clothes and shoes over our stoves, they were pliable enough to at least get on our feet. Though they lacked traditional shoe comfort, warmth, and appropriate support for another mile until they had melted completely. (Interestingly enough this is issue that proposed my hiking partner’s trail name. Upon drying socks, Dustin, as he was once known, would inadvertently catch his on fire, literally melting the toes out of both of them simultaneously. From then on, he will be best known as ‘HOT SOCKS’) Two more days of this would have us discouraged, a bit behind schedule, and no longer looking forward to the next day. Two days in a row we put in 10 hour days, only stopping to warm our toes, change our socks, grab a bite to eat and keep hiking. Both days not being able to cover more than 5 miles no matter how hard we tried. I pondered how it was even possible to hike at a half of a mile per hour without making some sort of bionic man intro slow motion joke. I am used to my small days being 10 miles and my bigger ones at +30 over 10000’ of elevation change for the day. I just could not fathom this.
Not to bore you, our hike continued like this until we got to our first Hamlet (which we do not even have those here mind you) only to send us another 10 miles on the road to the next town so we could get a cheeseburger and hotel. Rejuvenated with clean laundry, 6 days worth of food, full bellies and somewhat warm feet we continued on. Sadly, only to be met with mirror images of our prior days on trail. Nothing had changed.
This continues on for quite sometime and it was around mile 60, somewhere at the tail end of the first week, that a pre-existing achilles issue imposed itself. Having been familiar with the issue, I knew if I did not manage it with a fair pace now, that it would rupture and cause more of an issue than that creek ever could have. Turns out… it did rupture, but my foot was far to cold to notice the pain at the time, only giving me a slight discomfort and creaking noise. Mornings were painful, but it always seemed to become more manageable inside the first mile or two.
Having been humbled, cold, and miserable for more than a week we both sat in defeat in a lean-to outside of Long Lake. We shook our heads as we hesitantly agreed that this was no longer fun. As a matter of fact it had not been fun for a couple days. The idea that what was ahead could not be worse than what was behind, kept us moving in hopes that it would get better. It never did.
At 100 miles, as we sat for our last dinner we talked. There was no way we were going to make our cut off date. I had realized at this time that two of my toes were changing color and that hindsight, they had been numb for a few days, not even warming in my sleeping bag at night. Our ankles were swollen to the size of literal lacrosse balls, blackened and blued from the blunt impact of the ice. The never ending water logged shoes reassuring our feet were consistently wrinkled from start to finish. The pain in my achilles growing substantially every morning until it froze again. Unknowingly, taking away the pain that should have been telling me to stop, I was able to walk through it. I had blown up both of my carbon fiber poles, not allowing me to take any weight off of my feet during the relentless routine of breaking through the surface.
Don’t Leave Home Without Them
Below you will find a list of absolute essentials for hiking the Northville Placid Trail. The word “essentials” an arguable one of course. The nature of the Northville Placid Trail puts you days away from any real stores for the opportunity to pick up things you forgot, so don’t leave these at home.
- Map and Compass
- The trail is extremely primitive and poorly marked
- The blow down areas, thick vegetation (even in the winter) and beaver flowages are constantly changing the direction of the trail
- The water is constantly eroding away at bridges and crossings
- Lean-to’s can be a ways off trail with no real signification as to how far
- Waterproof Clothes
- The trail is extremely wet
- Torrential rains come and go on an instant
- Even when dry the water on the vegetation is prominent and will rub off onto your clothes
- The trail primarily follows run off’s, beaver flowages, lakes, rivers and ponds
- Weather changes on a literal instant
- We hit 50F degree fluctuations between day and night temps
- Solar Power / Power Bank
- There is absolutely no way to charge anything. If you are relying on anything battery operated for any reason, bring solar power. Power Banks are great pending what you plan for time in between towns.
- Bug Dope
- Now I can’t say we experienced them however the trail is very obviously stretched through wet marshy areas. We saw mosquitoes during the afternoons of our hike and our evenings were 20F. I can only imagine the warmer weather times of year!
- Granted mine froze into solid blocks of ice, they were crucial keeping out the mud and grit from water crossings.
- Many of the crossings had large amount of very fine silt
- Coverage (skin)
- The dense brush and thicket was brutal on clothes
- Even during the winter the brush was thick and heavy
- Ticks are inevitable
- The sun at high noon is hot at 2500’ and could very easily cause sunburns
- Unfortunately privies were few and far between
- A lot of them are not worth using regardless
- Give yourself some extra time. If the mountains don’t slow you down the views will.
- The lean-to’s are all opportune for a zero day
- Camp Shoes
- I suppose these are “necessary” however… your shoes will inevitably be wet. Camp shoes were something i looked forward every night to putting on and something Hot Socks envied when tending the fire and walking around lean-to’s.
- Water Filtration or treatment option
- The backcountry is full of animals. Beaver dam’s are as common as the lakes themselves and often times even part of the trail as you cross over them. Water filtration or treatment is an absolute must